Location, location, location.

view from Moorea Inter-Continental

There are three important considerations when deciding where to stay: 1) convenience and facilities at the location, 2) proximity to sightseeing, activities, restaurants/shopping, etc and 3) a room with a view. 
I don’t think you came all this way to spend time in traffic getting to places or to look out & see shrubbery or the back of another bungalow.

The Tahiti Inter-Continental is a full service resort. It is one of the two hotels closest to the airport & also offers easy access to downtown Papeete. It enjoys a prime waterfront location. However, it does not have  a beach as there is none on this part of the island. The majority of its rooms have a lagoon view or panoranic view of the Sea of the Moon and Moorea. (See Day 1 Post or Photo Album – “Love at First Sight”)

I recommend the hotel rooms and I stay here myself. I have spent early morning hours on the balcony, sipping complimentary cups of tea from mini bar, mesmerized by that spectacular view, watching the daily activity below: gardeners manicuring the grounds, guests jogging along the path, local canoe clubs paddling back and forth. Honeymoon couples taking those priceless vacation photos.

The Moorea Inter-Continental is close to Opunohu Bay, nestled between the mountains and the sea, with a beachfront location. The individual thatched-roof bungalows are larger than a hotel room with separate living and sleeping sections plus a porch or deck. These can even house families with a twin size day bed and a pull out trundle bed underneath.

beach bungalows

Garden units have a view of the tropical landscaping or other bungalows whereas the beach bungalows sit directly at the edge of the sandy beach.
I do recommend the lovely hotel rooms which are centrally located  and well apppointed. However, I would consider upgrading to a beach bungalow for the unique opportunity to live in your own very comfortable “little grass shack” on the beach.

Both resorts do have overwater bungalows. I would describe these as partial or shallow overwater units. These are built on land with a deck that extends out a few feet over the water or they are directly over very shallow water just off shore. For the full overwater experience. there are other more spectacular  locations which I will discuss later.

Of course, other properties have their distinct features and benefits as well but the same points apply.

Entrance to Helene Spa

Since we’ll be here at the Moorea Inter-Continental Resort for the next  few days, let’s relax into our stay. First, a leisurely lunch by the pool with a view of the lagoon beyond. Then, a special treat.

Don’t worry, those handsome young men from Bell Services will deliver your luggage to your accommodations. It will all be there waiting for you.

owner, Helene Sillinger

I have prearranged for my group guests to have a welcome treatment at the award-winning on site Helene Spa. Owner/founder Helene Sillinger is the originator of the first polynesian spa in French Polynesia and has created a tranquil oasis where ancient Tahitian traditions and indigenous spa products are honored.

My guests  have a choice of a neck and shoulders mini massage or a hands and feet mini massage with silky smooth virgin coconut oil. The locally produced monoi oil comes with its natural scent or lightly fragranced with floral or fruit essences.

During our stay, guests may return for other services from a full menu of treatments.

An attendant walks you back along a narrow path through a lush garden of dense foliage in the secluded rear courtyard. She leads you to a small open air pavillion and instructs you to hang up your spa robe and lie face down on the raised platform in the center before she leaves. Broad showerheads suspended above sprinkle down a warm, gentle rainshower on your back from head to toe for about 10 minutes. Once you have toweled off and donned your robe, your therapist returns to escort you to a treatment room for your Tahitian full body massage, an invigorating scrub or an exotic body wrap.

flower bath

Since there is an abundant profusion of tropical flowers everywhere – giant pink and red hibiscus, creamy white frangipani (plumeria), bright -colored bouganvilla, fragrant jasmine – you may prefer to soak in a Tahitian flower bath full of these blossoms prior to your services instead.

river bath

Another unique experience is the rock-lined riverbath. Water flows in from the back and through the pool, cascading out the front. The best time to book an appointment for this is during sunset because you have a direct view from here.

Now that we’re totally relaxed, we need a transfer back to our accommodations in one of those cute little golf carts.

Our luggage is wondering where we are!

Photo Courtesy of Tahiti Tourism

Time permitting, I recommend that travelers spend a day or two on the island of  Tahiti, the gateway to French Polynesia, and then head for the magical isle of Moorea. This is the place that polynesian daydreams are made of. It is one of my personal favorites – an island that is relatively easy to get to and  has a lot to offer – even for repeat visitors.

Moorea, the mythical Bali Hai of author James Michener’s book Tales of the South Pacific, rises out of the wide, shallow lagoon in soaring emerald mountain ridges. This famous and captivating landscape has long inspired artists, writers and romantics from around the world.

As we depart the ferry dock and drive along the single narrow coastal road that circles the island, we pass dramatic peaks, sandy beaches, turquoise waters and deep valleys. 

Cook’s Bay is magnificent but misnamed. Captain Cook actually stopped at Opunohu Bay, next along this route, where you frequently see a yacht or small ship anchored. This is where the HMS Bounty landed to search for breadfruit and the origin of the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty. If you have seen the movie(s) of the same name, you have already been transported here once. Driving up the winding inland road from Cooks Bay to the Belvedere Lookout Point will give you a bird’s eye view of both these spectacular bays.

As we continue around the island, you will see local villages, roadside stands, small boutiques, restaurants, and resorts/hotels sprinkled along the circumference of the island. There are no freeways , high rise hotels or shopping malls here.

Once we get comfortably relaxed and settled in, we will explore both land and sea and more
We’re almost “home”.

Aremiti Ferry

Of course, you could take the 7 minute flight on the teeny, tiny 15 passenger Air Moorea commuter flight between Tahiti and Moorea. It’s basically up-over-down before you know it and ONLY if you travel very light and are not claustrophobic. It’s really too short to even get a good view of anything.

Top Deck

It seems like a slow boat in comparison but I much prefer the 30 minute high-speed Aremiti catamaran ferry service that shuttles back and forth all day between these two islands. I’ll race you to the top deck for the best views of Papeete’s downtown marina area as you leave and the dramatic high mountain peaks as you approach Moorea.

If you prefer, you can sit in air-conditoned comfort inside in airline-style seats and even enjoy a beverage from the small snack bar on board. There are large windows all the way around so you won’t miss the crossing.

It can be quite interesting to spend some time at the ferry landing just watching the larger slower vehicle ferries load & unload, spilling forth everything from small passenger cars to huge trucks plus a wide assortment of people and cargo.

Sturdy metal crates are wheeled off containing our caged luggage. Arms reach in from every direction, in a free-for-all fashion, to snatch up bags and boxes. Naturally, you wouldn’t have turned over anything important, valuable or breakable to this informal process.

Gather up your belongings. Our driver is waiting with our pre-arranged transfer to the resort.

pareos displayed

Tahiti enjoys a tropical climate year round with sunny, pleasant days and an average temperature of 79F. In the southern hemisphere, the seasons are reversed. Summer is from November through April with slightly warmer and more humid weather. Winter extends from May through October when the climate is slightly cooler and dryer.

Loose-fitting, comfortable clothing in natural fabrics work best. Pack just enough t-shirts, sport shirts, walking shorts, casual slacks, sundresses, swim suits (of course!), sandals and reef walkers so you can travel light. Don’t forget a wide-brimmed or sun visor and sunglasses.

An item you may want to  pick up before you leave Le Marche is a pareo or sarong.  You can see from the wall display above that a dizzying variety of bold colors and designs are available. However, I did once see a young woman wearing a striking black and white pareo with a large gecko (lizard) on each side. It was beautiful in its simplicity.

Basically, each consists of 2 meters of fabric which can be worn in a multitude of ways by both men and women. A pareo show is a fascinating demonstration of  ways in which to dress the body with one or more of these. Tahitian pareos are typically made from cotton but you will also find many imported Indonesian rayon batik sarongs as well. Think of them as wearable art and free free to express yourself.

Those of you who have traveled with me have seen a mini parade of exotic designs from Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji, Australia and Bali. I have an entire wardrobe of these and wear them when I am in the islands and – in a few other warm places. I just toss a few into my small rolling suitcase and I’m ready to go.

Now let’s stroll over to the waterfront where we will ferry across to the neighboring island of Moorea.
Don’t miss the boat!

Le Marche

In the very heart of Papeete’s business district lies the public market that has occupied an entire city block for over 155 years. A block back from the waterfront, Le Marche is a 2-story open-air building containing hundreds of vendor stalls inside and around its outer perimeter. There you will find food as well as souvenir and gift items : fresh flowers, fruits, vegetables and fish in the produce sections;  hand-made crafts such as woven hats & baskets, wood carvings and elaborate shell jewelery; brightly-colored pareos (sarongs) literally by the hundreds; lightly-scented, moisturizing monoi (coconut oil) products; and some intriguing tropical fruit jams, jellies and juices.

Remember that Papeete is the both the capital and the commercial center of Tahiti. This is one-stop shopping at its best. You will find the largest variety of local products at some of the best prices in the islands. But I go there just as much for the direct contact with local people. 

The local currency is the French Pacific Franc (CFP or XPF).  It is handy to have some spending money for small items such as drinks, snacks and postcards. U.S. dollars may be conveniently exchanged at the airport or hotels.  Most larger businesses in tourist areas take major credit cards. However, Visa and Mastercard are more widely accepted than American Express. Be aware that smaller stores and street vendors may only deal in cash.

A quick word of advice – do not even attempt to barter with vendors. Bargaining and haggling over prices is NOT customary here. You may only manage to insult them. Always be friendly and polite when asking if they accept U.S. dollars and you may find that they have actually rounded the price down slightly. Just smile sweetly as you say Merci (french) or Mauruuru (tahitian) and walk away with your purchase(s).

I often talk to people who assume that the only thing to do on a tropical island is to lie on the beach and bake. I always recommend a balance of activity and relaxation wherever you happen to be.

Tahiti is the largest island in the country and a playground of nature. The surrounding lagoon waters offer ALL the water sports: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, outrigger canoeing, guided catamaran tours, deep sea fishing, even surfing.  Apply waterproof sunscreen ahead of time unless you enjoy being shades of hot pink.

It surprizes many people to learn that the island offers a mountainous interior with lush valleys, clear streams and high waterfalls that are ideal for guided nature hikes, 4×4 excursions and escorted tours. Remember to bring insect repellent. I knew that. But I had to be reminded – the hard way. Mosquitos like to lurk behind tropical foliage and enjoy feasting on fresh imported tourists! They seem to find me particularly tasty.

Once you’ve had enough sunshine  and fresh air, it may be time to visit any of several museums. The Museum of Tahiti & Her Islands is considered to be one of the best in the South Pacific for Polynesian history. It houses rare collections of art carvings and historical artifacts.

The Gauguin Museum is dedicated to artist Paul Gauguin’s life in Tahiti and the Marquesas. Unfortunately, almost all of the works displayed are reproductions. The originals are in museums and private collections around the world.

The Pearl Museum in Papeete presents a fascinating history of the Tahitian black pearl industry.

I strongly suggest that you visit each with an experienced tour guide rather than wander through on your own to learn the most from each institution.

Tomorrow – a different form of recreation.

On a small island, the water is never very far away. And people seem to naturally gravitate to the water’s edge.

The sand-bottom infinity pool at the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort was deliberately built out to the water’s edge. Special features include a swim-up bar to the left and a small rock-lined grotto pool at the rear (not pictured here). Definitely a cool place to “hang out” & relax after your flight.

In the midground, the Le Lotus gourmet restaurant extends out over the water. It is well-rated and very popular with both local residents and international visitors for special occasions. The perfect place for a romantic dinner a deux.

Probably the most enduring icon of Tahiti is the overwater bungalows which can be seen in the background. These come in a  wide variety of designs and sizes. Not all of them are created equal.  A garden or beach bungalow has a very different ambience than a shallow or deep  overwater bungalow or villa. These vary quite dramatically from location to location.

Note:  This image is exactly how I framed & shot it with my digital camera. No special lenses. No special techniques. No editing. If you were standing in my footprints, your snapsot would look just as lovely. Tahiti is one of very few places where the photos match the reality.

Next, a little field trip.

Tahiti is a sensory experience.

airport greeters

As you step off the plane at Papeete’s Faa’a International Airport, the air immediately envelops you in a  warm caress. Airport greeters hand you a snowy-white tiare flower. The delicate scent of  gardenia, the national flower of Tahiti,  will be everpresent during your stay. Next, a trio of local musicians serenades you into the airport building.  This warm welcome awaits you even if you are arriving at 1 a.m. on your 8-hour direct flight from Los Angeles on Air Tahiti Nui.

Once you have collected your luggage & cleared customs and immigration, a transportation coordinator meets you with a fresh flower lei before you are whisked off to your resort. After you arrive, the gracious front desk staff will offer you a tropical fruit punch before transferring you and your belongings to your accommodations.

Love at First Sight

This was my very first view of Tahiti after I arrived. From the elevated lobby of the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort, you can see the horizon pool in the foreground, their on site lagoonarium in the midground (dark area), the Sea of the Moon and the rugged peaks of Moorea in the background. It simply took my breath away.

Tahiti consists of 118 islands and atolls officially known as French Polynesia.  As far south of the equator as Hawaii is north, Tahiti is halfway between California and Australia. It is in the same time zone as Hawaii and on the same side of the International Date Line as North America.

The island of Tahiti with the capital city of Papeete is part of the Society Islands archipelago along with the famous islands of  Moorea & Bora Bora. Other often-visited island groups include the Tuamotus and Marquesas.

Bienvenue to the sensual South Seas.

Tomorrow we begin exploring.

Island Girl

You are invited to join me on a virtual tour from the comfort of your desktop. Vicariously experience dream destinations around the world as I introduce you to places, people and experiences through my personal photography and commentary.
As a travel specialist, I am often asked to name my favorite place.  There are several answers to this question depending on the purpose of the trip. Each island or location has a unique personality & resonates with a specific energy.

I am an island girl in every sense of the word. I was born on a tropical island and expect to end up on one. In the meantime, I have visited & explored islands all over the world.  But my love affair with Tahiti began the very first time I laid eyes on her surreal beauty. I have been enchanted with her ever since and so we begin our journey tomorrow in the islands of French Polynesia.

No passport required. For that matter, neither is a ticket or luggage or even a travel companion. Just bring  a sense of adventure!

‘The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page’ – St. Augustine.

For Bio, see About section (above right.)