Despite the tropical heat and humidity, resist the urge to shed layers of clothing. Minimal attire may be appropriate at the beach but generally not in public. You will observe that local residents are rather conservative in this regard. Thai men wear collared shirts and long trousers and women are dressed modestly. Visitors may sport skimpy tops and shorts in tourist areas but this is not acceptable at sacred sites such as temples and palaces.
Just past the guards, at the entrance to the Grand Palace grounds, you will see a board illustrating exactly what constitutes respectful clothing for visitors touring the extensive complex. Anyone with bare shoulders, exposed midriffs and bare legs will not be admitted. I had read that knees also had to be covered. This was not quite correct. Ankle length pants or skirts are expected.
I thought I was prepared. The “fashion police” eyeball all visitors. I am tall and my capris were deemed not long enough so I had to rent a sarong. Apparently, this is an ongoing issue so they are ready with temporary fixes.
There is also a measuring stick at the turnstile to double check length of garments. I didn’t pass this test either. A female attendant came over to assist me. We ended up tying the piece of fabric around my hips to get an extra inch or so. Meanwhile, I was thinking about several full length garments back at the hotel in my suitcase that would have avoided this problem. I was becoming a little irritated and wondered if I would even get in.
I was finally approved to enter. So, here I am in my top and a borrowed bottom, layered over my own bottoms. Only a hat, gloves and socks would have provided more complete coverage.
Once inside, I did notice that these rules were NOT applied consistently.
Let’s make a little detour on our way to the Grand Palace. There are vendors along the river who sell loaves of bread for mere pennies. We can glide up in our boat, purchase a few and then circle back out to feed the fish.
Break off a small chunk of bread and dangle it over the surface of the water. Soon, hungry fat fish resembling catfish will leap up to snatch the morsel from your fingers. There’s quite a bit of frenzied thrashing about and churning up of murky water as they compete for their snack.
rice barge
In terms of people feeding, there are a variety of restaurants dotted along the river for relaxed meals al fresco. It can also be interesting to sail on a restored Thai rice barge. These are available for day and evening excursions. The dinner cruise is a leisurely event with a delicious multi-course Thai meal and entertainment.
But now, we are on our way over to the most visited site in Thailand before it gets too hot and too crowded. I’m sure a convoy of large motor coaches have already arrived and spilled forth hundreds of other visitors this morning.
The glittering Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn is just down river and it shines golden in the sunlight, especially at dawn and dusk. Its towering spire or prang is the first part visible from a distance as you near the entire complex.
The population of Thailand is predominantly Thai (80%) and Buddhist (95%). Thousands of Buddhist temples in varying sizes and architectural styles can be seen throughout the country. However, each demonstrates the same attention to detail in ornate embellishments, dazzling prayer halls and multicolored statues that we see in Thai handicrafts such as embroidery, jewelery and carvings.
The temple grounds provide an oasis of tranquility that contrasts with the intense traffic and noise outside on roadways and the river way. If you choose to climb the steep and narrow steps, you will be rewarded with an excellent view of the nearby Grand Palace which is our next stop on today’s city sightseeing schedule. Just be aware that the way back down is more precarious than the ascent.
I will discuss another famous temple, the Doi Suthep, in Chang Mai in more detail as a fine example of northern Lanna style temple architecture.
Turning 180 degrees, we get a panoramic view of the s-shaped Chao Phraya River that runs through the bustling city of Bangkok. There is activity at all times of the day and night on this aquatic artery: commuter ferries, commercial transport, tourist boats, dinner cruises.
long tail boat
A long tail boat whisks you up the river at high speed past the ancient and the modern juxtaposed in this sprawling metropolis. High rises exist next to temples. The ride is fast and noisy but fun. Be prepared – you may also get a little backsplash regardless of the protective tarp. We will slow down to enter the network of side canals or klongs where people carry on their daily lives.
spirit house
As you approach a building, you may notice an intricately carved miniature replica of a house or temple displayed on a pedestal. Typically, these are made of teak wood or stone. In the animist traditions of Thailand, this is placed within the compound as a residence for the protective spirits that watch over the home or business. This particular spirit house sits on the grounds of the Bangkok Shangri-la Hotel.
A doorman heralds us at the front entrance with an elaborate gong. The beautiful Shangri-la Hotel enjoys a riverfront location directly on the Chao Phraya. The two connecting wings are set within a jungle of lush tropical plants and flowers. Our upper floor balcony offers fantastic river views in both directions.
Let’s go down to the lounge and enjoy a drink while the butler unpacks our things. I’m thinking we should swing by the stylish Chi Spa. I know they specialize in ancient himalyan and chinese treatments. We should schedule appointments for a jet lag recovery massage, don’t you think?
Sawadee-ka, Greetings from Thailand. We have now traveled from East Africa to Southeast Asia to an alluringly exotic and user-friendly destination. The former Kingdom of Siam is approximately twice the size of our state of Wyoming and located between Myanmar (Burma) and Cambodia. Many people do not make the connection between ancient Siam in the film and the play The King & I and modern day Thailand.
The word thai means “free” so the name of the country literally translates as “land of the free” which makes us kindred spirits. Thailand greets hundreds of thousands of international visitors each year through its major Asian gateway, the (still relatively new) Bangkok airport (2006).
I think Land of Smiles is an appropriate appellation for a nation characterized by the warm hospitality of its people. The traditional greeting or wai is a pressing together of the palms in a prayer-like gesture. People generally do not shake hands or hug. Actually, public displays of affection are are frowned upon in this society.
The modern capital city of Bangkok is huge, crowded, noisy, cosmopolitan and very high energy. We will begin our virtual tour here in the central region before visiting Chang Mai in the north and then Khao Sok and the islands of Phuket and Koh Samui in the southern part of the country.
Note: I am trying out an alternate day schedule (Mon-Wed-Fri) this month (May) rather than the daily schedule (MTWTF) from the previous monthly tours (Feb-Mar-Apr). Let me know what you think.
Jacintha@IslandGetawaysTravel.com