This an excerpt from the Kenya Virtual Tour.
See Archives November 2009 for the entire tour.

Day 23: Journey’s End

On my last day in Kenya, I spent several hours sitting in the shade of coconut palms fringing the coastal beach south of Mombasa observing a constant stream of human and animal activity: fisherman, hawkers, acrobats and jugglers, camel drivers, and the curious local monkeys.

Three men dressed in the traditional crimson garb of the central Maasai Mara plains walking down the beach caught my attention since they were obviously far from home and quite out of place. They paused long enough for me to capture their ethereal image in the shimmering noonday light. We were literally at land’s end. I was at my journey’s end and I wondered if they were too.

It was time to go home.

I had scaled high hurdles just to get to Kenya.

Was it worth it? Heck yeah! Would I do it again? Well, . . . let me check my Wish List.  The Spice Islands of Zanzibar, the Seychelles, Mauritus and Reunion – all islands off the east coast of Africa. And I know there are even more extraordinary experiences awaiting in Botswana.

Every serious traveler has a Travel Wish List. What’s on yours for 2010?

For more information, go to:
www.IslandGetawaysTravel.com

This an excerpt from the Kenya Virtual Tour.
See Archives November 2009 for the entire tour.

Day 20: Mass Exodus

As the thundering herd  crosses the Mara river, there are other dangers: hippos lying on the river bank or submerged in the water. And then there are the 18-20 foot long crocodiles seen here doing a little lazy sunbathing. Our guide made sure we were at a safe distance – on the opposite bank.

For more information, go to:
www.IslandGetawaysTravel.com

This an excerpt from the Kenya Virtual Tour.
See Archives November 2009 for the entire tour.

Day 2: Long Haul Expedition

I have become accustomed to taking a single overnight flight from Los Angeles to just about anywhere in the South Pacific – Tahiti, Fiji, the Cooks, Auckland or Sydney – with an airline ticket, a valid passport and a single suitcase.  Aside from a couple of credit cards, an ATM card and a small amount of cash money – that’s all.

Of course, I had done some general research for Kenya but it soon became apparent that traveling there was going to be more complicated. As the advance scout on these inspection trips, I discover all the potential pitfalls firsthand.

First, I would need a visa which involved sending my passport, application, photos and fees to the nearest Kenyan Embassy. Upon arrival, I discovered that it is also possible to have it issued at the airport – strictly with cash in hand, no checks, no credit cards. Not the time and place to come up short.

Then I had to have the appropriate and current travel immunizations for the region. This entailed shots in both arms and a prescription for anti-malaria pills. I left the travel clinic with my new bright yellow International Certificate of Vaccination signed and stamped accordingly.

Next, I had to purchase the proper clothing and fit it all into one small tote bag. This is due to the extreme weight limitation for domestic flights on small bush planes. Do yourself a favor, don’t even think about dragging along a full size, hard shell Samsonite, just because you can on the international flights.

Finally, I learned that two overnight international flights would be required from Los Angeles – one to London in Europe and one on to Nairobi in Africa. Yes, this involves travel through 3 continents. Remember, it is the other side of the world.

All of this just to get there. I really have become spoiled.
It felt like I was preparing for a major expedition.

I had to remind myself of the reasons for going and the experiences waiting for me.
I was still determined to go. That’s when the true challenges emerged.

For more information, go to:
www.IslandGetawaysTravel.com

On my last day in Kenya, I spent several hours sitting in the shade of coconut palms fringing the coastal beach south of Mombasa observing a constant stream of human and animal activity: fisherman, hawkers, acrobats and jugglers, camel drivers, and the curious local monkeys.

Three men dressed in the traditional crimson garb of the central Maasai Mara plains walking down the beach caught my attention since they were obviously far from home and quite out of place. They paused long enough for me to capture their ethereal image in the shimmering noonday light. We were literally at land’s end. I was at my journey’s end and I wondered if they were too.

It was time to go home.

I had scaled high hurdles just to get to Kenya.

Was it worth it? Heck yeah! Would I do it again? Well, . . . let me check my Wish List.  The Spice Islands of Zanzibar, the Seychelles, Mauritus and Reunion – all islands off the east coast of Africa. And I know there are even more extraordinary experiences awaiting in Botswana.

Every serious traveler has a Travel Wish List. What’s on yours for 2010?

If you’d like to be added to my private invitation list for future getaways, e-mail me:
Jacintha@IslandGetawaysTravel.com

Turn around 180 degrees for an expansive view of a beach that seems as wide as it is long. Diani Beach stretches out to waves coming in from the Indian Ocean beckoning you into the warm water. The sand is firm and perfect for jogging but there’s little activity at this time of day. That will soon change.

The beach bar is just opening for business. A vendor is setting up racks of sarongs. A man strolls by with hand-woven hats. Another with bags for sale.

A hotel attendant walked by. Could he get me anything?, he inquired. Some of the resorts in the South Pacific offer fresh coconuts. I asked if they had any, not realizing that a staff member would be dispatched to climb a palm tree and fetch me a fresh green drinking nut. It was quickly sliced open and handed to me with a straw inserted. A perfectly refreshing coconut mocktail.

And then I met the resident colobus monkeys – inquisitive, mischievious and completely fearless. They alone provided hours of free entertainment. They would walk right up, look over you and your belongings and perhaps abscond with a small item left unattended.

My only regret is that I have only 1 day and 1 night here. Barely 24 hours, enough time to look around but not really do much.

I had brought a stck of small bills, 5s, 10’s, some 1’s, for tips. Both camps had staff gratuity boxes and driver/guides were given tips directly. Some companies offer ultra all-inclusive trips. Gratuities were not expected in that case.

I had a little money left. I was leaving the next day and I knew I would have some time at the airport. I wandered into the duty free store to grab some gifts and souvenirs. At the check-out counter, the cashier informed me that credit cards were NOT accepted, only cash. On the way back to the gate, I finally noticed the ATM machine with a very, very long line. How had I not seen that before? Now it made sense to me. Strcitly cash and carry.

I would arrive home with less than $10 U.S.

Well, you know, The Sea Goddess must always gravitate to the sea.  Another short  flight from the Masai Mara takes us to a small airport near the coast, just south of the port city of Mombasa. 

I can feel the difference in the humidity. I can almost smell the sea salt. There is ocean nearby.

ocean front rooms

I promised you interesting places with character. No generic chain hotels. A few minutes drive brings us to the Sands at Nomad boutique hotel on Diani Beach. As we wind up the driveway through the coastal forest, our first view of the traditonal Swahili architecture is quite striking. 

This hotel is small but full service. It offers a pool and jacuzzis, a pool bar, a beach bar, an alfresco restaurant , a spa, a dive shop and internet center. It had been several days since I was last able to check e-mail. The computers were very popular with the guests and seemed to always be in use.

interior view of suite

The accommodations consist of rooms, suites and bungalows dressed in hand carved mahogany furniture and Swahili objets d’art,  the inspriation of designer and local artist Mario Scianna.

All the units are air-conditioned and I noticed mosquito netting for the first time on this trip. I wasn’t sure if it was for purely decorative or practical puroses until I found it lowered at night by the invisible housekeeping staff.

The beach front bungalows were all occupied so I was unable to get the manager to let me take a peak. Judging by the exotic exterior: the unusual domed shape, the thatched roofing and the curtained patio daybed, I’m sure it was equally lovely inside.

Throughout my journey, I had met many more European than North American travelers. Of course, it’s a much shorter trip for them. I was also fascinated to learn that most Americans rarely venture out to this part of Kenya for a coastal safari. Whereas British, German, French and Italian tourists frequently come for some R&R with sun, sand and sea.

Tourists from around the globe visit in the summer months to view the annual wildebeest migration from the Serengeti Plains in neighboring Tanzania. Millions of wildebeest move north in search of food during the months of June through September. Tagging along in the visual food chain are zebras, lions, cheetahs and hyenas.

As the thundering herd  crosses the Mara river, there are other dangers: hippos lying on the river bank or submerged in the water. And then there are the 18-20 foot long crocodiles seen here doing a little lazy sunbathing. Our guide made sure we were at a safe distance – on the opposite bank.

Wildlife photographer, Lisa Asch and wildlife artist, Peter Blackwell, both long time friends of professional hunter and filmmaker Alex Walker, radioed our driver with the location of a family of cheetahs.

Our driver was very skilled at knowing how to get just close enough to staidfy the humans but not too close to disturb the wildlife. Time always seemed to stand still when we were observing wildlife. We could just sit there for hours. But another driver called to respectfully request a turn for his guests and we quietly retreated, grateful for the rare opportunity.

We did pass other safari vehicles from the numerous other camps in the  Masai Mara but we never felt crowded. In some national parks in Africa, animals get completely surounded by vehicles, including mini buses and I have even heard, full size buses. We didn’t see this type of mass tourism and frankly, it would have ruined the experience.

Our driver/guide had tried for two days to find a leopard but it proved elusive on this trip as did the rhino. I would just have to come back.

We sat perfectly still. Not a sound except for the clicking of cameras. We all held our breath as the loiness loped casually in our direction. She walked from right to left directly in front of our 4×4 vehicle.

I had a sudden random thought.  We were only a few feet away. I wondered if she eaten recently or if she would suddenly leap at one of us. A single quick graceful pounce is all it would have required.
Fortunately, we were together in a group, not out here solo. Safety in numbers, I like to think.

She continued on her way, not taking any interest in us. We remembered to breathe again.

Our driver knew the location of 2 lionesses with several young cubs. We sat only yards away watching these energetic little bundles of fur playfully tumbling over rocks, each other and their mothers for well over an hour. Another delightful surprise. We reluctantly left when the light was completely lost.

Do you see one mother sitting behind the rocks?
Hint: look for the back of her head between the cubs.

We find ourselves at a distinctively different type of tented accommodation here at Serian Camp in the Maasai Mara region. This is a seasonal wilderness camp with a much more rugged and rustic and masculine feeling since it was designed by owner, Alex Walker, big game hunter turned conservationist.

Eight marquee-style tents are spaced well apart and tucked into the vegetation along the banks of the Mara River. Each is constructed on a raised platform with hardwood poles and heavy canvas. Furniture is minimal with a bed, a clothing cupboard and  small desk inside and directors chairs outside on the veranda.

 
You have to unzip the entrance, step out through the opening and go traipsing along the deck with your flashlight or solar lantern to your facilities at night. The open-air bathroom is to one side with a shower and flush toilet plus the luxury of a long and deep bathtub.  The acting manager offered 2 personal recommendations: drawing a hot bubble bath and watching the sun rise while sipping your morning (wake up call) hot chocolate.

There are 3 new larger units with interior bath on the opposite side of the river accessed by a suspension bridge. These tents are on the river bank at ground level, only a few yards from the resident hippos in the water looking back at YOU!

You will hear them grunting loudly, especially at night when they come lumbering up onto the banks. This presents one of the few real dangers. It’s important to know NOT to take a stroll around the  grounds without your personal Maasai guard who is posted outside at all times. Since my tent was isolated at the end of a long dirt path, I accepted the escort to and from the main lodge.

 Later, when I returned from dinner and slipped underneath the covers, I discovered that someone had thoughtfully placed a hot water bottle between the sheets. I found it cozy and comforting considering there is no electricity and no heat in these units.

I awoke several times during the night and listened to the animal noises outside in the darkness.