I often talk to people who assume that the only thing to do on a tropical island is to lie on the beach and bake. I always recommend a balance of activity and relaxation wherever you happen to be.

Tahiti is the largest island in the country and a playground of nature. The surrounding lagoon waters offer ALL the water sports: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, outrigger canoeing, guided catamaran tours, deep sea fishing, even surfing.  Apply waterproof sunscreen ahead of time unless you enjoy being shades of hot pink.

It surprizes many people to learn that the island offers a mountainous interior with lush valleys, clear streams and high waterfalls that are ideal for guided nature hikes, 4×4 excursions and escorted tours. Remember to bring insect repellent. I knew that. But I had to be reminded – the hard way. Mosquitos like to lurk behind tropical foliage and enjoy feasting on fresh imported tourists! They seem to find me particularly tasty.

Once you’ve had enough sunshine  and fresh air, it may be time to visit any of several museums. The Museum of Tahiti & Her Islands is considered to be one of the best in the South Pacific for Polynesian history. It houses rare collections of art carvings and historical artifacts.

The Gauguin Museum is dedicated to artist Paul Gauguin’s life in Tahiti and the Marquesas. Unfortunately, almost all of the works displayed are reproductions. The originals are in museums and private collections around the world.

The Pearl Museum in Papeete presents a fascinating history of the Tahitian black pearl industry.

I strongly suggest that you visit each with an experienced tour guide rather than wander through on your own to learn the most from each institution.

Tomorrow – a different form of recreation.

On a small island, the water is never very far away. And people seem to naturally gravitate to the water’s edge.

The sand-bottom infinity pool at the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort was deliberately built out to the water’s edge. Special features include a swim-up bar to the left and a small rock-lined grotto pool at the rear (not pictured here). Definitely a cool place to “hang out” & relax after your flight.

In the midground, the Le Lotus gourmet restaurant extends out over the water. It is well-rated and very popular with both local residents and international visitors for special occasions. The perfect place for a romantic dinner a deux.

Probably the most enduring icon of Tahiti is the overwater bungalows which can be seen in the background. These come in a  wide variety of designs and sizes. Not all of them are created equal.  A garden or beach bungalow has a very different ambience than a shallow or deep  overwater bungalow or villa. These vary quite dramatically from location to location.

Note:  This image is exactly how I framed & shot it with my digital camera. No special lenses. No special techniques. No editing. If you were standing in my footprints, your snapsot would look just as lovely. Tahiti is one of very few places where the photos match the reality.

Next, a little field trip.

Tahiti is a sensory experience.

airport greeters

As you step off the plane at Papeete’s Faa’a International Airport, the air immediately envelops you in a  warm caress. Airport greeters hand you a snowy-white tiare flower. The delicate scent of  gardenia, the national flower of Tahiti,  will be everpresent during your stay. Next, a trio of local musicians serenades you into the airport building.  This warm welcome awaits you even if you are arriving at 1 a.m. on your 8-hour direct flight from Los Angeles on Air Tahiti Nui.

Once you have collected your luggage & cleared customs and immigration, a transportation coordinator meets you with a fresh flower lei before you are whisked off to your resort. After you arrive, the gracious front desk staff will offer you a tropical fruit punch before transferring you and your belongings to your accommodations.

Love at First Sight

This was my very first view of Tahiti after I arrived. From the elevated lobby of the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort, you can see the horizon pool in the foreground, their on site lagoonarium in the midground (dark area), the Sea of the Moon and the rugged peaks of Moorea in the background. It simply took my breath away.

Tahiti consists of 118 islands and atolls officially known as French Polynesia.  As far south of the equator as Hawaii is north, Tahiti is halfway between California and Australia. It is in the same time zone as Hawaii and on the same side of the International Date Line as North America.

The island of Tahiti with the capital city of Papeete is part of the Society Islands archipelago along with the famous islands of  Moorea & Bora Bora. Other often-visited island groups include the Tuamotus and Marquesas.

Bienvenue to the sensual South Seas.

Tomorrow we begin exploring.

Island Girl

You are invited to join me on a virtual tour from the comfort of your desktop. Vicariously experience dream destinations around the world as I introduce you to places, people and experiences through my personal photography and commentary.
As a travel specialist, I am often asked to name my favorite place.  There are several answers to this question depending on the purpose of the trip. Each island or location has a unique personality & resonates with a specific energy.

I am an island girl in every sense of the word. I was born on a tropical island and expect to end up on one. In the meantime, I have visited & explored islands all over the world.  But my love affair with Tahiti began the very first time I laid eyes on her surreal beauty. I have been enchanted with her ever since and so we begin our journey tomorrow in the islands of French Polynesia.

No passport required. For that matter, neither is a ticket or luggage or even a travel companion. Just bring  a sense of adventure!

‘The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page’ – St. Augustine.

For Bio, see About section (above right.)

Normally, I don’t take pictures of food because it rarely does justice to it. But I was impressed by the lavish Sunday Brunch served at Banyan Tree and asked the general manager for permission to photograph elements of it without disturbing the guests. They offered a  broad selection of international cuisine, all artfully presented. I was again reminded of that attention to detail I had seen throughout my journey as well as the fact that we had enjoyed consistently wonderful meals in every region.

Take  a look for yourself.

tea selection at Banyan Tree

market station

Japanese condiments

Well, we are out of time on this tour. Island-hopping from Phuket to to Koh Samui, Krabi or Phi Phi Island will have to wait until another month as we bid adieu to beautiful Thailand and her gracious people.

This month’s raffle prize, a Thailand Gift Pack consists of a Thai Cookbook containing many of the exotic foods and dishes discussed on this tour, Thai coffee beans from Chiang Mai University’s Royal Plantation Project to enjoy after a Thai meal, an intricately patterned sarong with coconut shell clip so as to be respectfully covered when entering temples and palaces, a decorative travel journal to record observations and a portable travel clock/calendar.

Congratulations to this month’s winner, Ginny Leonard of Sacramento, CA.

FYI: CNN International announced the results of its Online Consumer Survey (OCS) on Travel and Tourism which reveals that Thailand was chosen as representing the best value for money for travellers in the Asia Pacific region. The survey conducted across CNN English websites had more than 5,000 respondents globally. Thailand came out as the best value in Asia-Pacific for respondents over China in second place and India in third.
CNN Press Release dated May 14, 2009

spa pavillion, interior view

Ah, if there is a Spa Heaven, surely this must be it. The world-renowned Banyan Tree Spa was the last stop on our one-hour whirlwind tour its namesake, the Banyan Tree Resort in Phuket.

After resort guests have taken advantage of all the recreational activities available, they can retreat into a sanctuary for the senses. Within the intimacy of individual spa pavillions, a wide range of holistic Asian treatments are offered. I wouldn’t expect anything less.

At the very least, I recommend that you make an appointment to indulge in the classic Thai massage. A set of loose-fitting cotton pajama-like garments are provided for your comfort. The therapist will lead you into a tranquil space where a thick, cloth-covered pad resembling a queen-size mattress awaits on  slightly raised platform.

This is sometimes called “yoga massage” because you will be stretched, pulled, twisted and massaged at acupressure points while seated and prone to get the blood and the energy flowing. At times, you may feel woman-handled (or man-handled) but it is ultimately deeply relaxing. You will pay a little more at an upscale hotel spa than at budget storefronts or in open air markets. But consider the difference in experience when administered by a skilled therapist rather than an untrained person with limited English skills.

If you are enjoying a lunch break during a full spa day, the adjacent Tamarind Restaurant serves a light and healthy spa menu al fresco next to that lovely pool.  Unfortunately, it was time to leave, no time for me to personally sample either the spa or the restaurant.

This scene may look familiar to those of you who have seen the film The Man with the Golden Gun. Phang Nga Bay in southern Thailand is where part of the movie was filmed. Local tour companies bring boatloads of tourists to James Bond Island but there is really nothing to see, except possibly some discarded litter.  Nevertheless, the true beauty of this area is the craggy limestone towers thrusting upward out of the sea and reaching for the sky.

You can explore the caves and chambers below the jagged cliffs in sea kayaks. Your paddle guide can even steer you through to hidden interior pools. John Gray pioneered kayaking in this area and remains the most respected low impact, eco-friendly operator here.  While most companies bring hoards of visitors during the morning, his offers an uncrowded afternoon excursion with dinner and then an evening float to view bio-luminescent plankton.

Returning to Phuket, the largest island in Thailand, we head for the Banyan Tree for a quick tour. This world famous celebrity hideaway is a full service resort that consists exclusively of private villas with walled courtyards for privacy. These stunning units range from one bedroom villas with outdoor jacuzzi to extra large villas with multiple bedrooms and both exterior and  interior swimming pools.

In addition, there is a full 18 hole golf course that hosts a major annual championship and a main pool that runs through the resort as  a free-form lagoon. The resort also has direct beach access and a golf cart service to shuttle you there and back from your villa.

This is a very elegant resort with plush accommodations for anyone seeking a tropical escape in true luxury. Here is a quick glimpse of the Spa Pool Villa where Elizabeth Hurley reportedly stayed. And I’ve saved the best for last. See you tomorrow.

private courtyard with exterior poolliving room

bathroom

living roombedroom with interior pool

bedroom with surrounding interior pool

“It’s time to saddle up but it ain’t no Arizona dude ranch and this ain’t no pony ride”.

 It’s a bit tricky to climb onto a full size elephant. Fortunately, they have constructed a platform at just the right height so you can step across and settle into the howdah or chair fairly easily.

Then, you just have to hang on because it’s a wobbly ride. Taking photographs was challenging with the natural swaying motion from side to side and an occasional detour off the path for an elephant snack.

I’m going to let you enjoy the view as we trek through the jungle.

elephants with their mahouts

Elephants are very complex and sensitive creatures. They are well respected in Thailand for their grace and intelligence and serve as symbols of the much-revered Thai monarchy. In fact, the annual week-long King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament in late March raises funds for elephant charities. You will see representations of elephants and references to these majestic creatures throughout your travels in Thailand.

There are quite a few elephant camps open to visitation in the northern areas of Chiang Mai , Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle. These are not all created equal. Some are working camps where you can see elephants rolling and hauling lumber, others are education centers offering supervised interactions. And yet other sanctuaries provide rescue and rehabilitation for sick, injured or abused elephants.

The Elephant Spa

Now that our new pachyderm friends were fed, we had to take care of another need. We followed the elephants and their mahouts over to what I call The Elephant Spa, their bathing area. We were each given a coconut husk loofah and bucket of sudsy water with which to  scrub down our personal elephant. Then we rinsed them off, hosing them down gently with a garden hose, before they strolled over to the pool to “play” in the water even more. This feeding and bathing ritual is just a part of the daily care that they receive here.

We had now worked up an appetite ourselves and returned to the camp to clean up for our own supper. We would be staying overnight and try to squeeze in one more activity in the morning.

Elephant Hills is a solid 3-star moderate camp with good basic tent accommodations and generous basic meals. It is a good value for what it provides. However, it is NOT the luxury tented camp experience  it advertises itself to be. Anyone who has traveled to an upscale or luxury camp in Asia or Africa will instantly know the difference. See my Kenya Tour/Day 9/Joy’s Camp in the April Archives for a comparison.

We’re taking a one day detour into the jungle before we continue south to the idyllic islands and beaches sprinkled in the Gulf of Siam and the Andaman Sea on either side of the Southern Peninsula.

Arriving by motorcoach at the Elephant Hills Tented Camp in Khao Sok National Park at midday, we had to head out immediately after lunch for a lazy river cruise. Both passengers in each piloted inflatable kayak were free to sit back and enjoy the leisurely float along the jungle waterways. The scenery was stunning with high limestone cliffs, cliff top caves and exotic wildlife. Our paddle guide pointed out plants and birds as we glided along.

 It felt a little strange to not be paddling and in essence, be chauffeured. The bulky life vests were a bit uncomfortable and unnecessary in the shallow water. But we complied with the request to don them for our own “safety” rather than kick up a fuss.  I could easily have waded to shore, if needed. I imagine it was more for their legal protection. I wasn’t interested in suing anyone because I toppled out of a boat in 2 feet of water.

my friends Helen & Ellen

We did stop for a tea break at one point. A fire had already been lit in preparation at this predetermined spot and a kettle was standing ready. We were even offered packaged tea cakes.

After our return to the camp late that afternoon, we had the opportunity to serve “tea” to the resident elephants. Their Thai mahouts or handlers had brought them into the feeding area.  We had our work cut out for us. Our host, the camp director, demonstrated how large quantities of fruits and vegetables were to  be cut and separated into individual baskets by all of us.

We had to get up close and personal for the actual hand-feeding. These gentle giants gobbled up the entire snack but were definitely more fond of certain items. The cut stalks of sugar cane were heavily favored over the less sweet squash and pumpkin. Nature’s version of candy.