Ah, if there is a Spa Heaven, surely this must be it. The world-renowned Banyan Tree Spa was the last stop on our one-hour whirlwind tour its namesake, the Banyan Tree Resort in Phuket.
After resort guests have taken advantage of all the recreational activities available, they can retreat into a sanctuary for the senses. Within the intimacy of individual spa pavillions, a wide range of holistic Asian treatments are offered. I wouldn’t expect anything less.
At the very least, I recommend that you make an appointment to indulge in the classic Thai massage. A set of loose-fitting cotton pajama-like garments are provided for your comfort. The therapist will lead you into a tranquil space where a thick, cloth-covered pad resembling a queen-size mattress awaits on slightly raised platform.
This is sometimes called “yoga massage” because you will be stretched, pulled, twisted and massaged at acupressure points while seated and prone to get the blood and the energy flowing. At times, you may feel woman-handled (or man-handled) but it is ultimately deeply relaxing. You will pay a little more at an upscale hotel spa than at budget storefronts or in open air markets. But consider the difference in experience when administered by a skilled therapist rather than an untrained person with limited English skills.
If you are enjoying a lunch break during a full spa day, the adjacent Tamarind Restaurant serves a light and healthy spa menu al fresco next to that lovely pool. Unfortunately, it was time to leave, no time for me to personally sample either the spa or the restaurant.
This scene may look familiar to those of you who have seen the film The Man with the Golden Gun. Phang Nga Bay in southern Thailand is where part of the movie was filmed. Local tour companies bring boatloads of tourists to James Bond Island but there is really nothing to see, except possibly some discarded litter. Nevertheless, the true beauty of this area is the craggy limestone towers thrusting upward out of the sea and reaching for the sky.
You can explore the caves and chambers below the jagged cliffs in sea kayaks. Your paddle guide can even steer you through to hidden interior pools. John Gray pioneered kayaking in this area and remains the most respected low impact, eco-friendly operator here. While most companies bring hoards of visitors during the morning, his offers an uncrowded afternoon excursion with dinner and then an evening float to view bio-luminescent plankton.
Returning to Phuket, the largest island in Thailand, we head for the Banyan Tree for a quick tour. This world famous celebrity hideaway is a full service resort that consists exclusively of private villas with walled courtyards for privacy. These stunning units range from one bedroom villas with outdoor jacuzzi to extra large villas with multiple bedrooms and both exterior and interior swimming pools.
In addition, there is a full 18 hole golf course that hosts a major annual championship and a main pool that runs through the resort as a free-form lagoon. The resort also has direct beach access and a golf cart service to shuttle you there and back from your villa.
This is a very elegant resort with plush accommodations for anyone seeking a tropical escape in true luxury. Here is a quick glimpse of the Spa Pool Villa where Elizabeth Hurley reportedly stayed. And I’ve saved the best for last. See you tomorrow.
“It’s time to saddle up but it ain’t no Arizona dude ranch and this ain’t no pony ride”.
It’s a bit tricky to climb onto a full size elephant. Fortunately, they have constructed a platform at just the right height so you can step across and settle into the howdah or chair fairly easily.
Then, you just have to hang on because it’s a wobbly ride. Taking photographs was challenging with the natural swaying motion from side to side and an occasional detour off the path for an elephant snack.
I’m going to let you enjoy the view as we trek through the jungle.
Elephants are very complex and sensitive creatures. They are well respected in Thailand for their grace and intelligence and serve as symbols of the much-revered Thai monarchy. In fact, the annual week-long King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament in late March raises funds for elephant charities. You will see representations of elephants and references to these majestic creatures throughout your travels in Thailand.
There are quite a few elephant camps open to visitation in the northern areas of Chiang Mai , Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle. These are not all created equal. Some are working camps where you can see elephants rolling and hauling lumber, others are education centers offering supervised interactions. And yet other sanctuaries provide rescue and rehabilitation for sick, injured or abused elephants.
The Elephant Spa
Now that our new pachyderm friends were fed, we had to take care of another need. We followed the elephants and their mahouts over to what I call The Elephant Spa, their bathing area. We were each given a coconut husk loofah andbucket of sudsy water with which to scrub down our personal elephant. Then we rinsed them off, hosing them down gently with a garden hose, before they strolled over to the pool to “play” in the water even more. This feeding and bathing ritual is just a part of the daily care that they receive here.
tent accommodations
We had now worked up an appetite ourselves and returned to the camp to clean up for our own supper. We would be staying overnight and try to squeeze in one more activity in the morning.
Elephant Hills is a solid 3-star moderate camp with good basic tent accommodations and generous basic meals. It is a good value for what it provides. However, it is NOT the luxury tented camp experience it advertises itself to be. Anyone who has traveled to an upscale or luxury camp in Asia or Africa will instantly know the difference. See my Kenya Tour/Day 9/Joy’s Camp next month for a comparison.
We’re taking a one day detour into the jungle before we continue south to the idyllic islands and beaches sprinkled in the Gulf of Siam and the Andaman Sea on either side of the Southern Peninsula.
Arriving by motorcoach at the Elephant Hills Tented Camp in Khao Sok National Park at midday, we had to head out immediately after lunch for a lazy river cruise. Both passengers in each piloted inflatable kayak were free to sit back and enjoy the leisurely float along the jungle waterways. The scenery was stunning with high limestone cliffs, cliff top caves and exotic wildlife. Our paddle guide pointed out plants and birds as we glided along.
It felt a little strange to not be paddling and in essence, be chauffeured. The bulky life vests were a bit uncomfortable and unnecessary in the shallow water. But we complied with the request to don them for our own “safety” rather than kick up a fuss. I could easily have waded to shore, if needed. I imagine it was more for their legal protection. I wasn’t interested in suing anyone because I toppled out of a boat in 2 feet of water.
my friends Helen & Ellen
We did stop for a tea break at one point. A fire had already been lit in preparation at this predetermined spot and a kettle was standing ready. We were even offered packaged tea cakes.
After our return to the camp late that afternoon, we had the opportunity to serve “tea” to the resident elephants. Their Thai mahouts or handlers had brought them into the feeding area. We had our work cut out for us. Our host, the camp director, demonstrated how large quantities of fruits and vegetables were to be cut and separated into individual baskets by all of us.
We had to get up close and personal for the actual hand-feeding. These gentle giants gobbled up the entire snack but were definitely more fond of certain items. The cut stalks of sugar cane were heavily favored over the less sweet squash and pumpkin. Nature’s version of candy.
Rolling up the extra-wide driveway, a massive city gate looms into view. The uniformed sentry waves us through. Hmm, a full parade with floats and marching bands could easily fit on this road. It’s a sign of things to come.
In the distance, a sprawling complex appears with the main reception building in the center. We have been transported back in time and space to a recreation of a Lanna kingdom. The buildings are super-sized and rich in architectural detail. No, it is not a theme park but the impressive Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai.
I have to admit that I was quite unprepared for an entire village comprised of Asian-style palaces and villas plus colonial mansions within this 60 acre lush tropical landscape. We were only here for a one hour inspection tour and not staying overnight. But I can certainly tell you about every category of accommodation and all the facilities since we saw them all. Several things are apparent: large quantites of teakwood were used in the construction of this resort. There are no mere hotel rooms here. The suites, single story villas and double story villas are all sumptously decorated.
The grounds are so extensive that guests are given a map and complimentary golf cart shuttle service. You could easily spend a week just exploring within the gated walls. There is an organic vegetable garden, working rice paddies (with water buffalo!) and a crafts village. The Thai cooking classes take advantage of the home grown produce as do the many themed restaurants on site. Of course, there are swimming pools, tennis courts, a fitness center, yoga and tai chi classes and even a championship golf course nearby (off property).
The real jewel in this crown is the Palace of Wellness, their Dheva Spa and Holistic Center housed in a separate Mandalay-inspired grand palace of its own. The center offers an extensive menu of Ayurvedic treatments, massages, aroma and aqua therapies.
This is truly a fantasy resort. A little over the top for my taste. But it all makes me wonder what heaven looks like.
The Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai is probably the most famous shoppertunity in Thailand, although the open air market is actually open for business both day and night in the downtown area. The sidewalk is lined in both directions with tiny stalls selling cheap Thai souvenirs and counterfeit designer goods.
Bypass these for the real finds. Inside the main market square, vendors have tables set up in a grid offering everything from local foods to cotton clothing to handicrafts. According to everyone I spoke to in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, this is the BEST place to shop for locally-produced items.
You can outfit yourself in a new wardrobe with shirts, skirts, a shoulder bag or backpack, sandals, a watch and jewelry. Redecorate your home with hand-carved wood furniture, glossy black lacquerware or pale green Celadon potter. Toss in some matching pillowcases and quilts with some strings of colorful miniature paper lanterns.
I was intrigued by some iconic images of Thailand, available for sale, ready to frame and display. Unfortunately, I was unable to find the owner of the booth to inquire about the photographer. And I even noticed a few individuals dressed in hill tribe garb selling the type of richly textured hand-loomed fabrics and embroidery we had just seen in the upcountry village.
Care to take a break from all this power shopping? Well, there are local treats in a food stall nearby that seem to be very popular although I couldn’t identify most of them. Small restaurants can also be found at intervals along the perimeter. One even allows you to select your fresh fish from the tank.
If you would like to sit down and put your tired paws up, you can get a foot massage for less than $10 (U.S.) cash. Really. Right here and now. Fully clothed. In public.
It’s a bargain. I just can’t vouch for the quality of the massage. That would depend on the person providing it. And whether he/she understands and heeds your requests for lighter pressure. They do seem to be a little too enthusiastic. Some patrons seemed to purr with pleasure while others grimaced in quiet pain.
American expat Jim Thompson is credited with reviving the Thai silk industry, introducing dyes that produce many of the vibrant hues we see today. As an interesting side note, his silks were used in costuming the 1956 Oscar award winning musical The King & I. It is possible to visit his former residence in Bangkok where his collection of Asian art is on display. The cluster of houses contain scroll paintings, carvings, sculptures and porcelains. If you are more interested in seeing and purchasing silk, the main store is in another area of the city.
However, a stop at the Jolie Femme Thai Silk Company in Chiang Mai offers a fascinating back-of-store tour where you can see silkworms, what they consume and what they produce. Here, you are welcome to observe and speak with employees as they work in each stage of production from raw material to spinning to dyeing to weaving.
The front showroom displays the finished products in a mezmerising rainbow of brilliant jewel tones. The staff did ask that I not take closeup photos to protect their inhouse designs. I understood the reason and I honored that request. No one likes to have their creative efforts “borrowed” without permission.
Believe me, the selection was so extensive, I almost couldn’t think. I would recommend making a shopping list beforehand as a guide – a silk tie for the husband, a silk scarf for the best friend, a silk purse for me, etc. You may see a few other items to tempt you and make your birthday and/or holiday shopping easier (hint with a wink). Everything from clothing to accessories to housewares is available at prices much friendlier to the wallet than those in Bangkok. Of course, you can also have items custom made to your specifications, if you don’t see a ready-to-wear that is ready-to-go home with you.
Just be aware that sometimes synthetics are passed off as silks. Stick to reputable stores and this will not be a problem. If you are looking for the heavier textured fabrics handwoven by hill tribes, the night market is where you want to look. That’s where we are going tonight.
It’s 6am. It’s predawn. Why would anyone be boarding a small van to go to a fitness park at this hour? No, we’re not going to run a marathon or even a 10K, not even a 5K. We’re on a mission.
We need to arrive before the tak bat or early morning procession of Buddhist monks from their temple. This ritual is the daily opportunity for people, local residents and foreign visitors alike, to offer alms to the orange-robed monks. The monks have no worldly possessions and rely on the generosity of others for their needs. These offerings are the only food and drink they will receive for the entire day.
The monks walk single file down the sidewalk in one direction, stopping when signaled by those offering alms. The owners of Window of Thailand have once again worked overtime, preparing dozens of food bundles for us to give to the monks. They briefly described the thoughtful selection of home cooked foodstuffs contained in each. It cleared demonstrated their care and compassion for others.
Since women are prohibited from direct contact with the male monks, we were instructed to carefully place our small wrapped packages into the center of the recipient’s food bowl. We would then kneel to receive their blessing in unison.
Once they were finished chanting, they would continue on in formation to the next person or persons, eventually returning along the same route back to the temple.
I zoomed in and framed a perfect shot of a simple and elegant bowl just as the young monk turned and started to walk away. Just a moment too late. At first, I was going to discard it. It was not the still photo I had intended to take. It still intrigues me as an unintentional “action” shot.
All the children were dressed in their finest traditional Hmong clothing for the occasion, nervously awaiting the cue to begin their cultural performance as we, the honored visitors, finished our delicious lunch of northern-style delicacies.
Once the performance began, we were treated to traditional music, song and dance by brightly costumed groups of children as well as solos by individual girls and boys.
As I edged closer to the pavilion to get closer shots, I looked down and noticed slippers casually abandoned at the doorway. I was reminded that adults and children rehearsed and prepared, investing time and effort into this event for our benefit. As soon as we left, they would change back into their regular everyday clothes and slippers, resuming their normal school day routine. The beautiful costumes would be put away until they were needed again.
Just before we departed, I watched several children running in a circle on top of raised wooden posts. After the “work” was done, they were doing what children do everywhere – playing with their friends.
