Le Marche

In the very heart of Papeete’s business district lies the public market that has occupied an entire city block for over 155 years. A block back from the waterfront, Le Marche is a 2-story open-air building containing hundreds of vendor stalls inside and around its outer perimeter. There you will find food as well as souvenir and gift items : fresh flowers, fruits, vegetables and fish in the produce sections;  hand-made crafts such as woven hats & baskets, wood carvings and elaborate shell jewelery; brightly-colored pareos (sarongs) literally by the hundreds; lightly-scented, moisturizing monoi (coconut oil) products; and some intriguing tropical fruit jams, jellies and juices.

Remember that Papeete is the both the capital and the commercial center of Tahiti. This is one-stop shopping at its best. You will find the largest variety of local products at some of the best prices in the islands. But I go there just as much for the direct contact with local people. 

The local currency is the French Pacific Franc (CFP or XPF).  It is handy to have some spending money for small items such as drinks, snacks and postcards. U.S. dollars may be conveniently exchanged at the airport or hotels.  Most larger businesses in tourist areas take major credit cards. However, Visa and Mastercard are more widely accepted than American Express. Be aware that smaller stores and street vendors may only deal in cash.

A quick word of advice – do not even attempt to barter with vendors. Bargaining and haggling over prices is NOT customary here. You may only manage to insult them. Always be friendly and polite when asking if they accept U.S. dollars and you may find that they have actually rounded the price down slightly. Just smile sweetly as you say Merci (french) or Mauruuru (tahitian) and walk away with your purchase(s).

I often talk to people who assume that the only thing to do on a tropical island is to lie on the beach and bake. I always recommend a balance of activity and relaxation wherever you happen to be.

Tahiti is the largest island in the country and a playground of nature. The surrounding lagoon waters offer ALL the water sports: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, outrigger canoeing, guided catamaran tours, deep sea fishing, even surfing.  Apply waterproof sunscreen ahead of time unless you enjoy being shades of hot pink.

It surprizes many people to learn that the island offers a mountainous interior with lush valleys, clear streams and high waterfalls that are ideal for guided nature hikes, 4×4 excursions and escorted tours. Remember to bring insect repellent. I knew that. But I had to be reminded – the hard way. Mosquitos like to lurk behind tropical foliage and enjoy feasting on fresh imported tourists! They seem to find me particularly tasty.

Once you’ve had enough sunshine  and fresh air, it may be time to visit any of several museums. The Museum of Tahiti & Her Islands is considered to be one of the best in the South Pacific for Polynesian history. It houses rare collections of art carvings and historical artifacts.

The Gauguin Museum is dedicated to artist Paul Gauguin’s life in Tahiti and the Marquesas. Unfortunately, almost all of the works displayed are reproductions. The originals are in museums and private collections around the world.

The Pearl Museum in Papeete presents a fascinating history of the Tahitian black pearl industry.

I strongly suggest that you visit each with an experienced tour guide rather than wander through on your own to learn the most from each institution.

Tomorrow – a different form of recreation.

On a small island, the water is never very far away. And people seem to naturally gravitate to the water’s edge.

The sand-bottom infinity pool at the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort was deliberately built out to the water’s edge. Special features include a swim-up bar to the left and a small rock-lined grotto pool at the rear (not pictured here). Definitely a cool place to “hang out” & relax after your flight.

In the midground, the Le Lotus gourmet restaurant extends out over the water. It is well-rated and very popular with both local residents and international visitors for special occasions. The perfect place for a romantic dinner a deux.

Probably the most enduring icon of Tahiti is the overwater bungalows which can be seen in the background. These come in a  wide variety of designs and sizes. Not all of them are created equal.  A garden or beach bungalow has a very different ambience than a shallow or deep  overwater bungalow or villa. These vary quite dramatically from location to location.

Note:  This image is exactly how I framed & shot it with my digital camera. No special lenses. No special techniques. No editing. If you were standing in my footprints, your snapsot would look just as lovely. Tahiti is one of very few places where the photos match the reality.

Next, a little field trip.

Tahiti is a sensory experience.

airport greeters

As you step off the plane at Papeete’s Faa’a International Airport, the air immediately envelops you in a  warm caress. Airport greeters hand you a snowy-white tiare flower. The delicate scent of  gardenia, the national flower of Tahiti,  will be everpresent during your stay. Next, a trio of local musicians serenades you into the airport building.  This warm welcome awaits you even if you are arriving at 1 a.m. on your 8-hour direct flight from Los Angeles on Air Tahiti Nui.

Once you have collected your luggage & cleared customs and immigration, a transportation coordinator meets you with a fresh flower lei before you are whisked off to your resort. After you arrive, the gracious front desk staff will offer you a tropical fruit punch before transferring you and your belongings to your accommodations.

Love at First Sight

This was my very first view of Tahiti after I arrived. From the elevated lobby of the Tahiti Inter-Continental Resort, you can see the horizon pool in the foreground, their on site lagoonarium in the midground (dark area), the Sea of the Moon and the rugged peaks of Moorea in the background. It simply took my breath away.

Tahiti consists of 118 islands and atolls officially known as French Polynesia.  As far south of the equator as Hawaii is north, Tahiti is halfway between California and Australia. It is in the same time zone as Hawaii and on the same side of the International Date Line as North America.

The island of Tahiti with the capital city of Papeete is part of the Society Islands archipelago along with the famous islands of  Moorea & Bora Bora. Other often-visited island groups include the Tuamotus and Marquesas.

Bienvenue to the sensual South Seas.

Tomorrow we begin exploring.